Not for $130 USD. No way.

Something I just thought of that I didn’t before is powering the consoles on and off. You might be able to get a power strip with a wireless connection to remotely turn off individual outlets. Then you set each console to the on position and turn them off by turning off the outlet.

Not sure what the consequences on the hardware level would be, but essentially unplugging it from the wall while it is powered on doesn’t usually harm a game console any different than just powering it off with the switch would. Maybe on the newer stuff, or the original Xbox maybe, since theyre more similar to PCs. But older stuff I can’t see that being a problem.

If you wanted a truly remote setup, that is.

Wireless controllers hanging on the wall with receivers already plugged into the consoles, app controlled power outlets, remote for TV, and remote for input matrices. Might be able to consolidate with a control system or IR based solution to reduce to 1 remote for TV and input matrices. Flaschcart or modded consoles loaded with all the games already. Etc.

More TVs, obviously.

EDIT: You could probably use an HDMI Matrix for your HDMI needs. Don’t know about component/composite needs though.

Thanks to exploiters like Jim Halperin!

I am being completely honest when I say I would want Jack Black in a Pitfall movie based on the game. Jack Black was in the games commercials, so it would be a nice way to round that off.

Are they actually worth that or is that what morons are listing/paying for it on ebay.

Next youll say that Panzer Dragoon Saga is actually worth the $900+ USD a copy of all 4 discs is listed for on ebay (spoiler warning: no video game is worth $900 USD).

Nah, this ad clearly says that girls can play Nintendo DS too! See look at the picture, it says good girls AND bad girls and both of them are holding a Nintendo DS!

Which is probably why gaming ads don’t look like gaming ads used to anymore.

What are the physical dimensions of the Mangmi? Does it fit in a big pocket, like about the same size as the PSP 1000? Or are all these handhelds still too big for that?

EFIT: It is bigger than the PSP 1000.

Wow, you must have been rich in the 00s to have a Trinitron.

Just for reference, in 2004 Trinitrons were $800- $2000 USD depending on size, in today’s money that’s $1300- $3500 USD.

Yes, they are more or less the same console by a different name.

Outside of a few extra features the Famicom provided, such as extra sound channels, the baseline console was more or less the same as the NES, and games had essentially the same visual appearance, with similar but different sound. Also some games allowed you to save your progress whereas the NES port may not have had that feature, such as Metroid.

The two are not different enough to really call them different consoles. Its kinda like a base model car, and one trim level up (but not so high like a sport package, just like an appearance package or leather seats only or something).

I have two.

A 1981 JVC 5" radio TV, and a Sylvania 27" from like, 1998 with a builtin VHS+DVD combo unit.

Nintendo didn’t change anything, because JoyCon Drift isn’t real, remember?

Including Nintendo. Especially Nintendo.

Everything was direct download on Myrient. It was also pretty fast for a free site.

The only thing that could have happened really is the yoke could have become misaligned if the tape that holds it to the tube was not holding very well. The convergence rings have lockrings on them that usually wouldn’t be effected by a hit or drop, but if they were loose they could shift as well.

The potential damage could range from slightly misaligned colors (convergence) to geometry warping (caused by yoke misalignment). To fix either of these you would likely need to open the TV to service it manually, which you should do anyways to adjust the focus potentiometer and the H/V Width potentiometers to reduce overscan. Only do this if you are comfortable with line voltage and have insulated electricians tools + gloves, as the TV must be plugged in and on top make adjustments. If you arent comfortable or cant be safe, you will just have to live with whatever you cannot fix with the service manual alone.

Most likely, nothing really changed. Unless it was hard enough to crack the plastic shell, it probably didnt do much of anything to the internals, unless it had a built in VJS or DVD player, as those can be more sensitive to kinetic shock.

Well, the R36S can technically run Dreamcast. Some Dreamcast games. At like, 50% resolution scale and with some frameskip probably. I was able to get it to run Phantasy Star Online pretty decently. But other games were unplayable.

Depending on where you live, legally speaking if you sold the carts you would have to delete the ROMs as well.

Personally I would just hold onto them. Plausible deniability aside, its nice to have them if the digital backup ever gets lost or accidentally deleted or corrupted.

Should turn on VSYNC to fix that horrendous screen tearing

/s

Japanese games primarily designed for use with NEC PC-88 and PC-98 computers that came on floppy disks had an even worse problem:

In order to save your game, you have to write to the floppy disk, usually wash disk needed to write somesort of data. Unfortunately, this means that the disk cannot be read-only protected. You probably see where this is going, but this sadly led to some players having uncompletable copies of games because they wrote to the wrong disk and accidentally ended up overwriting game data with save data.

Some games came with manuals that warned of this, and some games spent the cost of disk space to store actual in-game warning screens to try to prevent this.

EDIT: It has come to my attention that most people reading this probably don’t know this because they are too young, but these games that came on more than one floppy disk usually required you to insert at least 2 disks at the same time, one into both of the available drive slots. Then you would swap one or both out, depending on where in the game you were and if you needed to save or not. Each drive only appeared as a letter to save (usually A: and B:, which is why computer harddrives often start at C:, fun fact), and sometimes it didn’t prompt you to make sure after you selected one of the drive letters from the ingame menu that showed you nothing but the letter of the drive. So if you selected the wrong one, that sucks for you because they sometimes didn’t bother to check if there was already data on that disk or not before writing, which could cause data corruption, usually towards the end of the game.